Thursday, November 19, 2009

Greene Field Hockey and Coach Carlin

To Coach Carlin:

I remember the days when they played JV field hockey games as if it was for the state title. Of course they were much younger then, but even in those moments they knew that each competition was critical to their success and their ultimate goal of winning the state championship in the future. What is so great to see is that the time has come, the moment is here, the time is now and it gives me goosebumps to think of the weekend ahead. I once said to Coach Becker, if I had to go to war, I would want to take these girls with me! It is still true. I maybe an ocean away, but this weekend, I want you to know that they, as well as you and Coach Rapp will be in my thoughts and I will be rooting for your success! GOOD LUCK!

Win the War!

Monday, November 2, 2009

Roller Derby Girls


The last time I dressed up for a Halloween party must have been when I was a Freshman in college. Long before I realized I could be sexy. While girls like, Jenna were dressing as seductive cave women, Dorothy with a short gingham dress and high heeled ruby slippers, I was somewhat infuriated by the sexual power a woman could hold and certainly scoffed and avoided the idea of me being sexy. Instead, I was complimented by my ability to get ready fast, with little makeup or fuss. My clothes came from places like the Gap, sweaters occasionally from Ralph Lauren.

“I look like the type of girl who can make a really good meatloaf!” I would sometimes say.

My sister would respond back, “The only thing is you don’t cook!” I would nod, shrug my shoulders and depending on the decade, would slip on my Timberland hiking boots or my Lands End wool clogs and look out at my parents’ land that I loved so much. After college, Halloween was spent at Ross Park for their Boo at the Zoo Celebrations. One year, we made up a mad doctor skit where I pretended to have my leg hacked into a thousand pieces, requiring one scream after another, until small children left crying. Other than the small children crying, it was fun. I understood fear, my life had been fabricated on its foundations so, when the thought of children’s nightmares was too much, the next year, I volunteered to run the “Monster Mash” station and wore the most benign looking monster mask I could find. And the year after, Shawn helped me sit in the woods and blow fire extinguishers at unsuspecting visitors, Shawn and I gossiping in the woods, had to be my favorite. After Tim left the zoo, Halloween became more domestic. Living in our small village, in my Grandmother’s old house, we were able to give back to our community and easily supply four hundred kids with sugar crack. In my memory, unseasonably high temperatures characterized those years with friends from Norway sharing our front brick steps, as my high school-ers, who were far too old to be trick or treating, came to claim my best candy.

I suppose I have never been much on Halloween. Maybe because my Mom makes it very clear she doesn’t like it, and I suppose our attitudes about Halloween and Christmas decorations all stem from our Mothers. Her dislike of Halloween is interesting given the fact that she always made a costume and always encouraged us to be creative, Amy agreed. We were never princesses, our mom’s mottos centered on, “Pretty is as Pretty Does.” And little clout was ever given to our looks. Instead, I, could be an apple made from a cut refrigerator box, ribbons slipping over my shoulders to carry the flat, apple shaped cardboard, carefully painted red, a small hole cut to fit my arm which would be covered with a green sock and given eyes to be a worm. Do worms even have eyes? Ames' mom used the cardboard to make a mailbox. Neither one of us were ever a Disney character or a princess.


Jenna, Amy and I had spent weeks thinking of what costumes we could wear. My clog wearing days had ended and Amy laughed when I insisted I needed to at least be a little cute. No to a zombie, no to a brioche!

“Why? That would be sooo funny! Brioche? Come on!”

“That is just admitting singlehood forever!” I responded back.

“No! NO! that lady… that lady….. the one who moved to San Francisco, she met her husband at a Halloween party and she was dressed as a falafel.”

“I don’t want to be a brioche” as my hand went to my double chin, something I am doing a lot more of these days.

It was on that walk around the city that Amy came up with idea of becoming a roller derby girl. Ugh, that is good, what on earth could I be!?

“A brioche.” She repeated, “Come on, it would be fantastic.”

“NO!” Silence.

The thought did occur to me that maybe Paul Wicks would dress up with me. He had saved our Christmas party by learning a Christmas carol in just three days. Maybe he would be game to be a famous singing duo or something. My constant state of melancholy had led to listening to Barbra Streisand and Neil Diamond’s rendition of “You Don’t Bring Me Flowers”. The song from my childhood had re-entered my life my first year in Italy when Amy and I would sing on the path, synchronizing our ipods to play at the same time. My ipod played a Judy Collins version, hers Barbra! So when I said, “Barbra and Neil”, Amy thought it was a great idea, mostly because she thought I was admitting the defeat of Judy.


“I do have the nose!” I said, as my hand went to the bump, I have had since infancy, at the entrance of Decathalon where Amy hoped to find skates. We soon saw the only double wheeled skates they had were kids’ primary colored plastic ones that strapped and adjusted over your sneakers. As Amy was attempting to shove her size 10 foot in one, I finally exclaimed, “I want to be a roller derby girl.” arms crossing.

“I am going to have to duct tape them on, but they will work! Don’t you think?” She said, her toes curling over the edge, as I looked on pouting.

“Rebecca,” finally noticing my completely selfish actions. “So be one! Hey we could be on opposing teams and I will completely beat you up!” So that is how it happened, one pout, an empty threat and the roller derby extravaganza began.

Amy immediately started looking up names of derby girls on the internet, I didn’t really do anything except look at my butt in the mirror and wonder if I had any business showing it off in derby girl fashion. Amy also started lecturing me about keeping our costumes a secret, which was basically to the tune of “keep your big mouth shut”. I tend to be the talker, but in this case it turned out that Amy was the one who couldn’t keep it in.

“WHAT!? I realized I don’t like surprises!” she said with a laugh, as she caught my mouth open, as I caught her exclaiming to Jenna's entire birthday party, "Guess what we are going to be!?"

Jenna, hearing our excitement and loving Halloween herself, had taken to nightly skype dates with us that included a fashion show of costumes.

“I could be a stewardess.” Turning around in her tight pencil skirt and little white and red jacket, the scarf tied neatly at the neck. I can say quite seriously Jenna does not look like she has ever seen meatloaf, let alone tried to make it. Donning a sexy white dress next, “I could be Cleopatra? If I got a wig?”

The following night, she answered the call in a red shirt, tiny blue shorts and opened not with “hi”, but, instead that look where she scrunches her face, tilts her head, lifts her shoulder and said “Wonder Woman?”


“That’s my vote!” I responded.

For Amy and I, Wednesday afternoon would be costume-hunting day. Amy came to my room and my day ended as it always ends, with me saying goodbye to Justin on g-chat, closing the windows, shutting the lights off, as Amy and Mike wait impatiently in the hall. Once out in the parking lot, a bird flew over Amy and pooped on her jacket, as I laughed and she reminded me that maybe I should stop laughing and help her get it off. Oops.

So, two vintage stores and a stop at American Apparel, had landed us with outfits we were quite happy with. One more stop, Decathalon to pick up the skates we had seen two weeks ago and our costumes would be done and we could focus on getting the food we were now starting to desperately crave. Amy had worn heels all day, and had started to grow quieter with each advancing minute and she is never loud. I could tell she was reaching her limit when talk of McDonalds didn’t cheer her up. So, once in Decathalon we opted for the escalator over the stairs, and realized in the two weeks since we had been there last the skates had been moved to their winter position in the corner of the store.

“This… this is going to be a problem.” I said, immediately noticing the 1 and ½ pair of primary colored plastic skates hanging from the hook next to the hot pink and black roller blades. Amy had taken one pair and upon closer examination had realized they were adjustable and her toes no longer curled over the edge.


“Ames, this is going to be a problem.” I repeated a little louder and with that she looked up and saw the one lone skate hanging. Instantly deflated and switching to the doomsday, ‘I have been shit on by a bird’ mode she exhaled, groaned, her shoulders tilted to the ground, “I knew we should have bought these two weeks ago!”

After considerable coaching, she asked two workers the status of the plastic skates. The second worker was more helpful and when he asked if he could practice his English with us, I was instantly elated, as if I was now part of the game.

Amy: Do you have anymore of these?

Worker guy: nope

Me: Do you know where we could get some?

Worker guy: Maybe another Decathalon

Amy: Is there another in the city?

Worker guy: Yes, near Fratelli.

Amy: What metro line is that near?

Worker guy: Oh, you are without car?

Amy: Yes

Worker Guy: ooooh, that is going to be uncomfortable. I guess you could try a toy store, I mean that is what these things are, TOYS.

Me: How about, can I buy this one skate?

Amy (whisper): You can’t ask that?

Me (whispering right back): Why? I could wear just one. I could be a cheater roller derby girl!

Worker Guy: (Shaking his head no)

Me (a little louder now, voice heading to my throat, perhaps a little whiney): But what are you going to with this one skate?

Worker Guy: Well, umm….

Amy (really whispering): Stop it you are being belligerent.

Me: Seriously, how much? How much for one skate?

Worker Guy: You can’t buy it. We might find the other one somewhere in the store.

Amy: (shaking her head disapprovingly at me.)

Me: What!? I want a roller skate.

Worker Guy: (walks away)

Me: I am going to look for the other skate, it has to be around here somewhere.

“My feet hurt”

“Let’s look!”

“No, I am done.” As she sat down on a bench and underneath her breath said the key to it all, “It probably didn’t make the move.” With that I was following the path the skates had taken from their summer spotlight to their new winter home and there it was, on the floor. I jumped, I think I armed pumped, I might have even done Annie’s imitation of Nadia Comaneci winning the gold medal in gymnastics for Romania in 1976.

“Where is he?” I said, as I took off around the store skipping like my Mom acts when I come through security, I am not sure it is all that beautiful of a sight, let me just say there is a lot of hopping and some high pitched cooing involved.

I lifted the skates to the air, proclaiming for all to hear, “I found them!” and when he didn’t even look up, I put my arms down, took two more giant steps and lifted them again and said a little louder, “I FOUND THEM!” he looked at me and nonchalantly nodded. I turned and looked at Amy.

She said firmly, trying to end the nonsense, “He doesn’t care! Let’s go!”

Once on the street, heading to the taxi stand, I was completely out of my mind ecstatic and Amy was silent. Rambling of my victory, mumbling my jubilation, looking at Amy for her admittance to the grandness of my discovery, she finally interrupted my gaiety and said in a tone that was a little less then kind, “Yes, Rebecca, you are a winner, OK!?”

“I KNOW! Thank you, I don’t know why I needed to hear you say it, but I did. I was so right, I found the skates. YESSSSSS.” I was manic Rebecca, the one whose eyes go a little crazy and a cheerleader bounce and clap enters my step.

Soon we were home and Amy stopped being annoyed and started laughing hysterically with me. Fortunately or unfortunately, she somehow always encourages my mania and my shenanigans and quite honestly loves me for exactly who and how I act. Once safely home, we ran into our respective rooms and raced to get in our outfits, laughing the whole way. Amy’s outfit consisted of pink satin shorts and a mesh black tank top, matching black tube socks to her knees. My outfit: red boy brief underwear outlined in white, over black leggings and red tube socks with a blue and red zip up track jacket on the top.


“You picked your whole outfit just to match the skates didn’t you?” Amy said shaking her head, when she saw me emerge from my room.

“Yeah! Of course!” I said, as if there was no other possibility and a natural thought everyone would have, as Amy’s face said, ‘My sweet Jesus, how are we friends?’.

We were terrible, at skating, atrocious in fact. How could we be so bad? We had spent our childhood skating around our kitchen tables as Sheena Easton’s “Gloria” played on the record player and now we were screaming as we almost fell everywhere. I mean, of course there was the fact that the skates were made for children and we could only get our feet in them if we were in our stocking feet.


Trying to get into my room to update Justin on g-chat, attempting to avoid the cords of our non existent wireless internet, crashing into my door, reminding Amy that before we practiced any further she should perhaps pee, it has happened a time or two, that we have peed our pants three feet from the bathroom. Upon leaving the bathroom her pink satin shorts were pulled to her natural waist in order to be historically accurate and now a knot was tied in her black mesh shirt. She may or may not have had camel toe. As I sat on my computer, trying to update my facebook status and holding my computer in precarious positions in order to get a picture of my new skates on the built in camera, Amy started insisting I count the time it took her to skate from the kitchen to her bedroom. I had not finished my two earlier goals, so I appropriately lied on the first run, looked up and said, “Five seconds.” I gained focus when I realized she was serious about improving her time and started actually counting.

“Ten seconds.”

“BUT, I was totally faster this time!”

“Yeah, well, you might have been. I completely made up the first number. But to your credit, it seemed like five seconds!” Amy finally did get to 6 seconds and my facebook status was updated, “Roller Derby Saturday Night!!!!!!!! Outfits ready...now we just need to learn to skate or ‘A-Cup Killer’ and ‘Rebel-icious’ might go down without a hit. Amy is making me time her on how long it takes to get from the kitchen to the bedroom...what is she planning? btw 6 seconds!”

Soon, we started coordinating our skating with music. Amy playing her favorites from the 90's, which Lisa, Jenna and she had belted at the top of their lungs in our kitchen just three days earlier. Justin, not to be out done, battled across the ocean with his own tunes ranging from Blondie (my favorite) to Soul II Soul's "Back to Life"!

The night ended with pizza at our local Egyptian pizza place Canto VI. I have to be honest, I might be a roller derby girl every Halloween, no matter how big my butt gets! Skating is fun!

P.S. Amy just told me her mom never made her that mailbox costume. “Umm I have a confession, my mom never made me that mailbox costume. I was actually jealous of the mailbox. I figured it was a harmless lie, well unless you wrote about it, and then I would have to confess.”

Haaaa hahaa I love that girl!

Thursday, October 15, 2009

L-O-V-E



October 10, 2009

“L- is for the way you look at me”, I started softly, staring out the window, instructing my brain to remember every tree, every building, every wrought iron balcony.
“O- is for the only one I see.” Gaining volume, looking at Mike and the cab driver, to see if they were willing to go along with my serenade. When neither flinched, I continued, now trying to get a reaction,
“V- is very, very extra-ordinary, E- is even more than anyone that you adore and…” as my eyes were again glancing out the window and a smile ran across my face, the words exiting my mouth blurred into a mumbling of lyrics made up to fit the tune.

“You were conceived to this song!” the driver, interrupted in a heavy French accent as he pointed at the radio.
“Hmmm?” I said, tilting my head to hear.
“Nat King Cole! Your mother and father made love to this man and made you! Think of how many children were conceived because of Nat King Cole!” said with a laugh that filled the cab, as if an entire generation should now thank Nat King Cole for the romance that led to their eventual births.

I laughed, thinking, “Wouldn’t it be fantastic if that was true?”

The philosophical cab driver marked the end of my second trip to Paris and now I was sitting next to the river, 8 months later, with Amy, contemplating “Paris trip number three” and thinking about ghosts. My initial introduction to Paris was during the summer of 2004. I was 28, with only an inkling that I would fall in love with the city on the Seine. I must admit, I had wished for it, but it seems love rarely comes when it is beckoned. At least for me, it has always arrived when I least expected it, was least prepared, and where circumstances were anything but ideal. But Paris was neither forbidden nor stained with complexity or guilt. Paris, with my inkling, would get the love I was able to give and somehow Paris answered. And though no love is ever safe, at that moment, it certainly felt that way then.




Since, I became a world history teacher, I have been intoxicated by the mere thought of Paris. It was a city I had begged students to consider. The sun king dancing the lead part, himself; Rousseau, Voltaire, their ideas posed, debated in the salons and restaurants of Paris; Marie and Louis, and their conspicuous consumption; the fish ladies marching to Versailles; Robespierre and his slippery slope to terror. How could you not love this town!? Yes, the love I had for Paris was academic and juvenile. Like a seven year old, looking at the pyramids, picturing the pharaohs and the gold.

I was a baby and this was a time long before I knew how to love anything besides friends, family, hometowns, and world events. This was not the Rebecca who is now consumed with the idea of great love, looking for evidence of it, in every great leader, writer, artist, movie and friend. This was not the woman who asked the Empire State building to marry her from the rooftop of a West Side apartment, or the one who would twirl in the Piazza del Duomo, with a black dress and matching heels, in an attempt to seduce it as a new lover. I was different and it was a different time.



During my first trip to Paris, I was a child wife away from her husband, fearful of everything, wide-eyed and hesitant. A child wife, whose husband begged her to, “Just relax. It is three weeks in Europe, Rebecca! Just have fun!” I sometimes look back and wonder if he knew, in that moment, as he was hugging a tearful me getting ready to walk through the security line in Newark airport alone, did he know, that he was freeing a caged animal? Him letting me go, PUSHING me to go, wanting me to go, would change me forever and that change would ultimately require me to leave. I would be gone, in two years, out of his life forever.

“Paris…” I had said in a mere whisper as I sat looking out the window of the plane, “Paris, be kind to me, for I want to love you. Don’t be rude, obnoxious, mean or insulting, instead, please let me wander your city in awe and acknowledgment. I promise I will be reverent of the history you hold.” and with those words, Paris wrapped me up and for three days of whirlwind site-seeing with one of the most beautiful women on the planet, Paris welcomed me in and I was in complete adoration.




So here I am, five and a half years later, my legs dangling on the edge of the Seine. My heart no longer feels juvenile. These past years have brought with them, some of the most breathtaking moments of my life. I have seen the pyramids and pictured the golden pharaohs, contemplated Pericles at the acropolis, looked at the colosseum and thought of tigers, seen the Hagia Sophia in the snow. But more importantly I have witnessed the power of unconditional love and I understand what it means to have a village of people who love me despite my human-ness. I also understand the depth of despair. I left a man who started loving me when I was 15 and who continued to do so, until I was 30 and walking out the door. I betrayed people I loved for a person I loved more. I am not sure you should ever say such things out loud. You don’t, you shouldn’t. But I can’t stop myself and I can't seem to shake my obsession on the workings of love, so I suppose I will continue to ponder and write. For me, it is the only way to make sense of it. I suppose in order to love Paris, we must at least accept it all, the terror, the guillotine, the conspicuous consumption and starvation, as well as the debate, discussion, art, and beauty. We must realize that somehow, whether we like it or not, all those things, the injustice, betrayal, selfishness, freedom, rights and love, all live so beautifully and tragically in the same city on the river Seine so, I suppose it is only fair they have to live in my heart too.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Sexual Harassment

Doris Bennett, my Grandmother’s best friend, who must be close to 90 now, always asks, whenever I see her, with a glint in her eye, and one finger pointing, whether the Italian men pinch my butt? The pointed finger is for the ending, “You know you should be careful, Becky!” It is the glint in the eye and not her wagging finger, that makes me wonder if it is nostalgia for a day past when men whistled at the beauty she surely was or if she is truly angered by the degradation of what an unwarranted pinched butt must hold? I admit I have a dichotomy of feelings on this subject too. In fact, I am somewhat afraid to announce to my friends and family my formal position, but if you promise to listen to the end, we may gain some understanding?

Anyone who reads this knows my platonic wife, Amy. You also know we are basically inseparable, in fact after I realized my prayers to become an overnight lesbian failed, I moved on to hoping that we would meet brothers, best friends or at least only have men that didn’t intrude too deeply into our nearly perfect life together.

Our friendship was quite honestly formed on the path from Opera to Noverasco, one we biked to work on, and took nightly walks for exercise. It was there that we learned our theories of religion, philosophy and even sexual harassment. The path nestled closely to the Tangenziale highway that headed directly to Milan. We soon realized that the vehicles passing, depending on our outfits, would often honk enthusiastically at us. Amy would bet me how many honks we would get a morning. I would always guess high, usually seven, her guess, three. Depending on the day, and our outfits, one of us would win. After a beep, I was known to scream, “Hellloooo Italy!” Perhaps, I was desperate, but I hate to admit, I quite honestly loved the attention.

A rule was added after I accidently screamed, “Hello Italy!” when a car beeped in the middle of town. My arms raised, face smiling, the car coming to an immediate halt ready to take whatever I had to offer. Our hands went to our mouths and we quickly ran away, embarrassed.

“No screaming thank you’s unless, the cars can’t actually stop and talk to us!” became the rule we lived by. And from there we went on about our life in Italy quite happily. We became used to the fact that people look at you from head to toe and make instant judgments of approval or distain, with little social ramifications. We soon even embraced the gawking ourselves. We kept records of our days and even celebrated the walk where we got 34 honks.

After moving to the city, the honks focused more on traffic and not too much on us and we again, became quite comfortable going unnoticed.

It wasn’t until Sunday that my views on sexual harassment had to be re-examined. We found ourselves at Porta Venezia heading to catch a ride with Jenna to go to the “Run like a Deejay” Run/Walk event near the San Siro soccer stadium. We were running late, and as Amy called Jenna to tell her, a long-haired man on a bike slowed next to us and made eye contact with me. As his eyes met mine, a slow kissing/hissing noise, reverberated through his lips. I grimaced, shook my shoulders in disgust, which just made him hiss louder.

“Are you kidding me!?” I said, not turning away from him, instead speaking right to his face. He looked back and kept eye contact and continued with that horrible noise, a “I will fucking kick your ass!” came flowing out of my mouth, without a thought. He continued to linger around us, as Amy got off the phone. We turned right on Buenos Aires, to get picked up, the man turned too and started making circles around us. When he was directly beside me, Amy leaned into me, whispering in my ear, “Kick him, Rebecca!”, with a clear emphasis on HIM.

“I can’t,” I replied, in a whisper, “You!” With that, Amy, her head on a swivel, looked left then right and before any of us really knew what was happening, she was swiftly kicking his back tire. I can honestly say I only saw his face and heard the sound of her foot getting stuck in his spoke. His reaction suddenly went from the perpetrator to the victim while Amy hopped trying to get her foot free. I realized, he didn’t think he had done anything wrong, when he announced to us “Va fanculo!” Which we repeated immediately back to him and for a brief moment we all looked at each other in complete silence, wondering how this would end. I learned later, that Amy believed she would be punched.

Marco’s car appeared and we quickly tried to motion that a crazy biker was harassing us. As we hopped into the backseat, Jenna started rather ridiculously yelling words that I didn’t even understand. Once safely seated, Amy’s toe was checked and our nervous laughter filled the car.

Since then, we can’t help but repeat the moment out loud and in our heads, and I can’t shake my disbelief that a woman who often whispers her most important statements actually turned around and kicked a man for making kissing noises or that one of Amy’s kicks made a grown, creepy sexual harasser feel like he was suddenly the victim.

Amy and I both still wish her kick had actually knocked him over, and hope he will think twice before trying it again. We also agreed, we prefer a honk to a hiss any day. Somehow, I think Doris Bennett, my Grandmother’s best friend would agree.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

vino













Saturday, October 3, 2009

Countryside


It was my favorite uncle’s birthday yesterday, not that you should say such things, “favorite uncle”, but it’s true. The one, when I was 18, I wrote my college application essay about. The one that introduced me to Pygmalion, Peter O’toole, male flute players, flowers planted in a garden, Jane Austen.

It is weird I suppose to be in Italy, listening to the tapperelli rise in your neighbor’s apartment, and the teapot heat the water until it softly whistles, in order to fill the French press coffee maker or to place the milk in the steamer on the smaller right burner of the stove. A cup of coffee so carefully prepared that it is only right to be nestled gently in my hands and pulled close against my face. The eggs will be prepared next, a dash of milk added, which is why the carton still sits on the counter, now. The toast and herbed oil goat cheese will play host to the eggs that will be scrambled in a small decaying Ikea frying pan.

I pause my typing to check the milk, to see it being warmed slowly by the blue gas below. I will prepare the meal and think of home.

I wrote to my uncle on his birthday, a simple email, not a card, and he would have loved a card. I had tried to write a letter last week on the hotel stationary at Stresa and I did, sealed it, and put it in my bag, to be mailed on Monday. I thought he would love that I was near Hemingway’s Farewell to Arms, and he would have. But I couldn’t send it. The words felt hollow, so, it is Saturday and it sits on my desk, unopened and unsent.

Just an email,

“I have thought of you a lot lately, but I suppose that is nothing new. And not because of birthdays or because of talk of dinners in Cazenovia that I will not be able to attend. No, it is a picture of you, wandering around your garden, with your cat ahead or behind depending on the day. It is a vision of you from a distance, as I turn up the dirt road, to go to the swamp. The swamp I named Ophelia's. You are far away, but you feel so near, making my heart feel big, just at the thought of you being there, on the land, a place I can't seem to stop longing for.”

His response back, simple and beautiful

“It is amazing how it is always the little things-- digging in the dirt and planting flowers or a new shrub, walking up a dirt road to a swamp, looking across a lake or a field and seeing something that reminds us why we're here, walking around with a cup of tea following a cat to no particular place at all, smelling the fall air and watching the leaves drop from the maple tree-- are the things that save us, that help us make sense of this life that often makes no sense at all.”


So, as I sit here in Italy, I can’t help but think about the people in upstate New York. Autumn brings a sense of nostalgia and a haunting allure that makes me miss it all. The flag football games, the battles over new turf fields, the lessons planned in the Moore Memorial library, the paint debates between my parents, questions about America posed late at night. It is hard to be so far away.

“We are going out to the country tomorrow! I’ll drive!” Mike texted.

A simple text message to remind me, right now, my place is here. A place where a friend quotes Jesus, Buddha and Rilke to help you make sense of things. Or where peeing your pants because of laughter, can happen three times in two years, and holds joy and no shame.

Because I am here, I have Amy, Mike, Robert, and Mary,(skype dates with Justin and Annie) along with Lisa, Jenna, Julie, Driedre, Zach. Because I am here, I have both upstate New York and Northern Italy, and today, as I head to the countryside that feels better than good.

Now, I will sing to the courtyard and wash the dishes I have dirtied, as I listen to my neighbors recycle their wine bottles in the bin below.

There was a time when I said, “My dishwasher was the best gift I ever received…” Not today.

Monday, September 28, 2009

Stresa, Lago Maggiore



September 26-27, 2009

Stresa on Lago Maggiore (Lake Major), filled with tour company buses crowded with Germans, Americans, the French. Yet, do the French even ride in tour buses? I don’t think so either, tour buses of Germans and Americans.

Our hotel, The Grand Bristol was sitting in the shadow of the truly Grand Hotel des Iles Borromées, the setting of Hemingway’s famous, Farewell to Arms. The lake is lined with hotel after hotel, looking like colonial statements found in places like Mumbai.



Amy and I giggled at the strange and eclectic mix of artifacts which seemed to litter every inch of our hotel. Some, real, while other objects appeared to be glorified souvenirs of things such as cheesy Venetian masks.

“I am not sure if I want to leave immediately or stay forever.” Amy said, after sitting next to a giant plexi-glass protected jade ship that was either pillaged or gifted at some point in days gone by.



Tourism or not, crazy hotel or not, Stresa itself, was a typical lake town in Northern Italy. The lake suddenly emerging from the walls of giant tree filled hills, and the clouds magically taking over the empty spaces exactly at dusk.